Obstacles to Peace? Arab citizens of Israel

An article I read recently made me again mourn the loss of complex thinking when it comes to Israel-Palestine. The article, which I read in Ynet Israeli news a couple weeks ago, is titled An Obstacle to Peace: Israeli Arabs, Palestinians have opposite interests in respect to a peace deal.  The article claims that the Arab population of Israel, who are Palestinians, do not support a peace deal and are in fact working against it.  Citing responses by some Arab MKs in the Israeli Knesset to remarks and moves made by the PA, the article claims that the Arab minority in Israel is “more radical” than Palestinian leadership.  The reasons given for this are that Arab Israelis ‘have something to prove’ to the rest of the Arab world since they live inside Israel, and that they are afraid that the thousands of Jewish settlers now located in the West Bank would be re-settled into Arab areas inside the Green Line in the event of a peace deal.

First of all, the couple of examples cited by the article of one particular Arab MK in Israel do not represent the whole of the Arab minority, which make up a huge number (20%) of the Israeli population.  Second, the ways that Arab Palestinians in Israel feel about any kind of peace deal are very complicated, not simplistic as the article suggests.

Arabs in Israel are worried about a peace agreement, just as Jewish Israelis and Palestinians in the West Bank and Gaza are.  However, Arab Israelis are caught in the middle and are one of the groups with almost no voice during the negotiations.  They speak Hebrew as a second language, go to Israeli universities, and have Jewish friends and colleagues at work. They watch Israeli news and know the country inside and out. They know the realities of discrimination and racism in the Israeli public.  They cannot get the jobs they want or buy the land they want because they are Arab. They are called “security risks”.  And they see every advertisement about children in Gaza and hear every Israeli comment on the news justifying violence against innocent Palestinians every day.

Arabs in Israel worry about a peace agreement for so many reasons, but it doesn’t mean that they don’t support justice.  If a peace agreement happens, their reality would change. If there was a Palestinian state, their existence in Israel suddenly becomes one of choice. Choose to stay or choose to start a new life under a Palestinian government, leaving everything behind.  If you choose to stay, deal with thousands of settlers being moved back inside the Green Line, likely at your expense.  Find your children continuously fighting for equal rights and representation in a state that is increasingly controlled by an ultra-religious minority of Jews.  Or take your chances in a new and less stable state of Palestine, with years of re-building ahead.  Be prepared to suffer at the whims of new regulations on visas, travel, citizenship, etc. due to the new 2 state solution. It’s just such an unknown for them.

So for now, Arab Israelis want justice, not only for their Palestinian relatives and friends in the Occupied Territories, but also for themselves as rightful citizens of Israel. 

Instead of calling them obstacles to peace, Arab Israelis are key to the process. If anyone knows the meaning of coexistence, it’s them. They know what it is to be caught in the middle of this conflict. When I lived in Kufr Qara, an Arab village in Israel, I discovered nuances of opinion and more complex views on the conflict than I had ever heard before. I believe that nuance and complexity could save us, if people on all sides were willing to think less in black and white. Particularly in this conflict, a little bit more creativity is needed. I wish some of these nuanced voices of Arabs in Israel could be heard more, and their stories heard.   And I’ll argue with anyone who calls them obstacles to peace.

Bans and Oaths

The Israeli legislature, the Knesset, is scaring me lately. Last year, when I was living in Kufr Qara and first heard of the proposal for a “loyalty oath” in Israel, I largely dismissed it as the remarks of one extremely nationalist politician.  It was no great surprise coming from Avigdor Lieberman, the newly elected Foreign Minister and head of the Yisrael Beiteinu party.  The oath he proposed would require all citizens to swear loyalty to Israel as a Jewish and democratic state.   I never honestly thought that I would be seeing Prime Minister Netanyahu pushing it through his Cabinet this year and handing it to the Knesset. With the number of Israeli academics and journalist who have written impassioned, reasonable, and historically-sound arguments against such an oath, I also thought that reason could not fail to reach Netanyahu’s government.  Evidently I was wrong.

There is still hope that the loyalty oath will fail to gain the votes need to pass in the Knesset.  Reported today by Ha’aretz, there are so many disagreements about wording the bill (should only non-Jews have to swear the oath? Should all new immigrants? Does it apply mostly to Arabs?) that many Knesset members even of parties like Yisrael Beiteinu are reluctant to approve it.  Read the article here.  Why is there such a debate over it? Because “loyalty oaths” are scary. Because they sound authoritarian. And because a lot of people are threatened by it, most of all the 20% of Israel’s population who are Arab Palestinians.

I believe that no state can declare its identity to be one religion and hope to keep the true principles of democracy and equality intact.  I also think that Israel can still be the homeland for the Jewish people without declaring itself a Jewish State.  It’s a subtle but crucial distinction in my mind.

Not that these distinctions are escaping Israeli politicians. They know well what these phrases mean to non-Jews in Israel. Efforts to keep control the narrative of ‘what Israel is’ are ongoing. These are also getting scarier. Today I also read that another Knesset MK, Gideon Ezra from Kadima, sponsored a bill that would ban Arabs from working as tour guides in Jerusalem (of which there are at least 300 currently).  Yes, that’s right. Ban Arabs from working as tour guides.  I cannot believe these things are even being publicly discussed! Mr. Ezra’s reason? Arab tour guides do not present the “national Israel viewpoint,” and “do not represent Israel’s interests in the appropriate manner.” Read the article here.  Do I need to even explain what I think about this? Believing that a state has, or should have, one ‘national viewpoint’ is to deny the values of democracy, pluralism, and individual freedoms.  I hope that the Knesset will come out against state-sponsored tour guides based on ethnicity.  I truly hope so, or I will know that Israel has completely lost its way.

Loyalty oaths and bans on certain ethnic groups scare me, because they remind me of so many cases in history where countries have gone down similar paths, only to be haunted by their own creations.  Yes, the Israel-Palestine conflict might make some think that this is a special case, where extraordinary measures are needed. That has also been said before.  Extraordinary measures are needed, but not in this direction. Instead of increasing the distrust, hatred and fear between ‘the loyal ones’ and the ‘disloyal ones’ – the politicians of Israel should be working to resolving this conflict. If only that were apparent. Instead of efforts to make peace, what’s grabbing the headlines are loyalty oaths and further discrimination against Arabs.

goodbye for now

Well, this is my last post for the summer. I've been in Cairo for the past couple weeks, enjoying the Ramadan season with friends. Even while on 'vacation' in Egypt, I've found many interesting conversations happening, particularly about the Ground Zero mosque controversy happening in the U.S.  Many of my Muslim friends have heard about this debate happening, and it has fed more into cynicism that Americans have something against Islam and Muslims.  I've received some email forwards claiming Muslims around the world are seeking world domination, and that there is a slow creeping of sharia law in the West. My friends here know that the true spirit of Islam, and the teachings and life of the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) are totally against this principle.

However, others of my friends also admit that Islam (as any religion) can be easily manipulated to support political agendas.  In this, Islam joins Judaism and Christianity as having stains on its record.  However, I hope that Muslims in America do not feel isolated from the rest of our society, because we need them.  The danger I see in this mosque debate is the anti-Muslim tone that it has taken. This could have negative consequences for all of us in the future.

Anyway, I am expecting more conversations about the mosque in NYC when I get back, and I for one am glad that at least some people out there (ex. Mayor Bloomberg and Jon Stewart) are rationally responding to it. I'm happy to be getting back to New York, the park, and even studying. :)  I expect to be taking a break from blogging for awhile, so for those of you who read a few posts over the past months, thank you!

 It was an unforgettable summer. As always, I look forward to the next time I'm back in the Middle East.

Honesty: the Ground Zero mosque, Israel/Palestine, Muslims and the West

Sitting in Cairo now, I’ve been thinking more about the conversations that I had with Israelis and Palestinians over the summer. I’ve also been following the debate in the United States about the mosque/Islamic community center that gained approval for building near Ground Zero.

What I’ve been thinking is that there’s a need for some real honesty on all sides. Take Israel and Palestine. I watched a documentary recently that portrayed pro-Palestinian protesters in north America as building raging anti-Israel sentiment among young people.  The commentators criticized these protestors for crossing the line between criticizing Israel and being anti-Semitic, and said signs describing Israel as a racist or apartheid state are beyond this ‘line.’  I definitely agree that some protestors cross the lines of anti-Semitism. Some pro-Palestinian protestors are simply crazy, cruel and completely insensitive when they use Holocaust terminology or demonize the entire Jewish religion. I also agree that calling for Israel not to exist is wrong.

However, it is dishonest of Israelis to claim that this criticism is totally unfounded.  There are plenty of reasons why many people view the situation in Israel/Palestine as apartheid. There are also plenty of reasons why people view Israel as a racist state.  In many cases, it is.  And many Israeli Jews that I have talked to have spouted unbelievably racist sentiments towards Arabs. So, I’d like to see some honesty about this.  Likewise, pro-Palestinian activists should condemn the use of insensitive and evil language against the Jewish people. Pro-Palestinian activists should also condemn unequivocally the use of suicide bombings, etc. against Israeli civilians.  And importantly, which the documentary did acknowledge, being pro-Palestinian does not equal being anti-Israel.

Likewise, the debate over the so-called “Ground Zero mosque.”  Which is not even really a mosque, nor is it exactly at the Ground Zero site. But that’s beside the point.

The point is that those who are criticizing the Islamic center should admit that they are failing to see Islam as a multi-faceted, dynamic and complex religion – rather than a global monolith working to take over Western civilization.  The kinds of Muslims wanting to build this Islamic center could not be more different than the Muslims who blew up the World Trade Center. The same as the Jews who beat up Palestinians in Hebron could not be more different than Rahm Emmanuel – or that Jerry Falwell could not be more different than my Christian professors at university.  The tea party movement, Gingrich and others should also realize that they are losing ‘America’ when they start to choose only those who they like to have the freedoms guaranteed in the Constitution, rather than extending them to all.  Islam is a religion just like any other, and should demand the same intellectual honesty and respect as any other.

But on the other hand, some Muslim leaders in America need to be much more honest as well. When asked about Hamas, they should criticize their bombings of Israeli cities.  They should also be able to offer honest and candid answers about problems in Islam with women’s rights and just punishment. When the Taliban grab the headlines again and again with their public stoning executions and the like in the name of Islamic sharia law, there is a need for Muslims to clarify strongly the way in which this is not acceptable.  Perhaps Muslims should focus on the issue of Islam and the state ('church and state') and generate some robust, honest debate on groups like Hamas, on Iran, and on the Taliban. Explain to us why these groups/phenomenon have arisen, and let more Americans understand. I think this is the major issue which makes so many Americans nervous about Islam. And though I am not in the least afraid of Muslims eventually making America an Islamic state (and think it's ridiculous) I think many Americans need to hear some honest answers from Muslims.

Those of us who study Islam, this conflict, and these issues have an advantage. It’s part of my life to understand these things and to parse out the truths from the falsehoods. But I’m beginning to have much more sympathy for people who don’t have this opportunity. It is hard to draw accurate conclusions about these complex issues when so much of what you hear on both sides is colored by dishonesty.

Meeting someone from Hevron

Today, on the bus in central Israel, a girl sat next to me. She looked like she was about to go camping, wearing Teva sandals, sporty pants and a t-shirt. When we started talking in halting English, I realized she was young, maybe 19 or 20 years old. I asked her where she was from, and she told me : Hevron.

Hevron, the Hebrew word for al-Khalil (Hebron in English), the city of 300,000 Palestinians in the southern West Bank. Al-Khalil also houses around 500 Jewish settlers, who live in the Old City with Israeli army protection.  I had just randomly run into 1 of these 500 Jews, on the bus.

For a moment I actually stared at her face in slight shock. But then, I thought to myself: what to say?!? I’ve been to al-Khalil so many times, but literally never spoken to one of the Jews there. When I have seen them, they have been throwing water or garbage at Palestinians, spitting on my friends, or looking at me with disdain.  Perhaps this girl has done one of those things, perhaps I had even seen her once from a distance.

First, she told me that both of her parents are American, her father from Chicago and her mother from Baltimore (I was surprised her English wasn’t better!) This did not surprise me, as many of the most extremist Jewish settlers in the West Bank are actually American Jews.  I asked her if she had ever spoken to a Palestinian in Hebron. She said no. She then asked me what I was doing in Israel. I told her I had been working in Ramallah with a program for children (limited English prevented me from explaining more). After learning I had been staying in Ramallah, she asked me: “Do you hate Israel?”

Calmly, I said no, of course not. Look where I am? Riding an Israeli bus on my way to my Israeli relatives’ house on a kibbutz. But in my head I was also shocked.

I again brought up the topic of the Palestinians and Jews in Hebron, asking her why she never talks to any Palestinians there. She said that all the Arabs hate them, that they would never allow any Jews to live in Hebron. She said, “we will never have peace with any Arabs.”  And again, as she said it, it was as though ‘Arab’ was a dirty word. I told her, the reason the Palestinians in Hebron do not like the Jews is because they have been so hurt from them, and they are afraid. She said, “I think if I talked to any Arab they will try to (and she made the motion of putting a gun to her head).”  She asked me, “have you been to any Arab’s house before?” I said yes, many times. She looked so surprised, wondering if it was safe for me. I told her, they are wonderful people and I love to be with them.  I told her, please if you see a Palestinian girl one day in the street, try to say hello to her. Try to be kind and see what happens.

(sigh) I couldn’t believe this conversation even happened. It makes me want to talk with more settlers. If only there was a way to transform al-Khalil/Hevron into a place where Jews could live peacefully among the Palestinians.  If only someone could talk sense to extremists, if the settlers would stop teaching their children to hate all Arabs. Then I wouldn’t be meeting a young girl who is anything but innocent already.

Letting Muslims into our Hearts: the Mosque near Ground Zero

As many of us have been seeing in the news recently, there is quite the controversy about the new mosque that received permission for construction near the Ground Zero site in NYC.  Called Cordoba House, the mosque is actually slated to be an Islamic community center: hosting artistic and cultural events, community classes, children’s activities, as well as the mosque and religious center.

Now I’m not writing this to debate the origins of this mosque idea, nor its funding. (Though I did check the website, as well as Park51 website, and they claim they are receiving absolutely no foreign funding).  I’m writing about the concept: letting Muslims into our hearts, acknowledging their desire to be a part of mainstream America, allowing them and us to repair the damage of 9/11.

I recently watched the film My Name is Khan.  It follows the story of an Indian Muslim man whose life in America is brutally interrupted when his adopted son dies after being beaten up at school for being Muslim.  There is a scene where Khan enters a mosque, and hears the imam giving a lecture on Muslims needing to fight. The imam tells the story of Abraham when he is asked to sacrifice his son Ishmael (or Isaac in the Christian version), but in the end God provides a ram for the sacrifice, sparing Abraham’s son.  The imam interprets this as God calling Muslims to sacrifice for the cause of Islam, that in some cases God calls us even to spill our blood.

Khan yells: Satan! at the imam. He rebukes him, saying the point of this story is that God will always provide for us, that we have to trust and be compassionate even until the end. God will take care of us. No one else can, even when we are facing the prospect of terrible pain.

I think that Khan’s words in the film reflect the views of so many Muslims after 9/11, particularly in America. 9/11 was painful for America, for the victims of the attack.  But 9/11 was also terribly, excruciatingly painful for so many Muslims, who saw their entire religion hijacked in a few short hours. Rather than fighting back against much of the discrimination and violence that faced them in America afterward, and even forced to watch America enter 2 wars as a response, Muslims have been waiting for God to take care of them, without any violence whatsoever.

America needs to get past the point where accusing then-candidate Obama of being Muslim was considered a politically fatal stab. When Obama was asked if he is Muslim, I wish he could have said: “what if I was?” “Is being Muslim somehow wrong, somehow un-American?” All he did was deny it.

This mosque near Ground Zero should exist. It should be there on the grounds of freedom of religion first – allowing all religions in America to practice freely, adding to the numerous Jewish synagogues and Christian churches spotting New York City.  It should also exist as a symbol, allowing Muslims to trust in their destiny in America, being welcome in a country which was built on pluralism and individual liberty. We need to welcome Muslims, no longer treating Islam with suspicion and separating them from what is considered ‘mainstream’ America.  What better way for us to heal than allowing Muslims to be present at the place where 9/11 destroyed the reputation of their religion, allowing them to show their compassion and the true face of Islam?  It is time we welcome Muslims into our hearts, into the heart of America, as equal Americans in our eyes.

Shabbat Dinner in Jerusalem

This Saturday, I went to my first ever Shabbat dinner. I also feel pretty special, because my first Shabbat dinner was in Jerusalem, the holiest of holy cities (well, perhaps). J Andrew, friend of mine, invited my friend Ratna and I to join a group of American and British yeshiva students at an orthodox rabbi’s house.

We met at the Wailing Wall in the Old City, where a few hundred people were gathered, meeting their friends and family, some praying at the wall before heading off to celebrate Shabbat.  We walked over to see the joyful dancing; some young women danced in a circle holding hands and singing near the wall.  When we met the rabbi, he was young, only around 25 years old.  Already married with two young children, he and his wife were introduced to each other by their rabbi back in Chicago, and have moved to Jerusalem, allowing him to study Torah.  When he walked up and introduced himself at the wall, I stuck out my hand in greeting. He graciously tried to ignore it. I had forgotten that it is inappropriate for men to shake my hand during Shabbat (for him it might be an everyday rule, I’m not sure).

After our group had gathered, we left the wall and walked for around 45 minutes to the rabbi’s house, north of the Old City.  The walk was peaceful, with hardly any traffic on the streets. Transportation and using technology is prohibited during Shabbat.  When we arrived to his apartment, the lights had gone out and there was only the flicker of candlelight.  After standing in the dark for a couple moments, he politely said: “since we are celebrating Shabbat, we can’t turn on the lights. Would you do it for us?” And so, as the honorary Gentile of the group, he led me outside and pointed to the fuse for me to switch on. J Now, this might be cheating a bit, but I have a sense of humor about it. It would have been difficult to eat in the dark. J

Next came hours of amazing food and fascinating conversation. Our group consisted of young British and American Jewish men, who have come to Israel to study; the rabbi and his wife; and me and Ratna. Ratna and I are both working in the West Bank this summer, and even bringing that up felt awkward in this group.  Through the course of the evening, we spoke about the conflict, about the nature of U.S. support for Israel, loyalties to Israel vs. the United States, about how Palestinians feel in the West Bank, and whether women are mistreated in Islamic societies.   Some of them asked good questions and seemed genuinely interested in what Palestinians think/feel.  Others seemed only willing to keep professing their belief in Israel and their support for AIPAC. Another told me he hated the Arabic language, that simply the sound of it made him think they were bad people.

As angry as some of the comments made me, it was a fascinating conversation and one that I seldom experience.  The emotions that tie Jews all over the world to the Israeli state – even wealthy east coast frat boys – is astounding. When I’m forced to listen to them, and realie the extent to which Israel is embedded in their religious and cultural consciousness, it is a reminder of how difficult communication is across divides. It’s a reminder to work harder.  And also, it leaves me with the conclusion that if these young men could only see some of the things I’ve seen, they would perhaps begin to understand. I only wish I could convince more of them to come with me to Hebron, to see the Jewish settlers who throw trash at Palestinians and spit on them.  Young Jewish men like these are the ones who need to stand up and say that these settlers do not represent Judaism, nor Israel. Just as ordinary Muslims had to stand up and renounce Al Qaeda, and moderate Christians should renounce crazy people like Pat Robertson, these young men should be the ones standing up against these extremist settlers. I also wish more of them could see the good in an organization like J Street, which gives Jews a place to both love Israel but leave room to criticize its actions.

Because I could go on and on about this night, I’ll stop now. It was fascinating, and a Shabbat I won’t forget.  I hope I have more opportunities to speak to young Jews like them again. I’ll be better prepared next time. J I won’t shake hands, I’ll be ready to turn on the light switch, and I’ll challenge them more on stopping the settlements and working towards real peace.

Is the Occupation really so bad?

In some conversations I've had recently, some people seem to have the perception that the Occupation isn't so bad these days... that things have been 'relaxed.'  It is true that there are up and down times during this occupation.  Some times, violence sparks more road closures and arrests... sometimes, things are cooled down and the checkpoints are loosened.  But the occupation is still very much a reality, and the control of Israel is felt throughout the West Bank and Gaza.

Some people have asked me what the military presence is like in the West Bank.  Do we see the Israeli army every day? Do we feel constantly that we are under a military occupation?  In Ramallah, we do not see the military day-to-day. But Palestinians here feel the occupation nevertheless, whenever they want to drive to the next city. The fact that they cannot enter Jerusalem, which is only 20 minutes away. The difficulty in obtaining permission to even cross the Allenby Bridge into Jordan, where only then they have an airport from which to fly to anywhere in the world. They also feel the occupation through its economic effects - the difficulty of opening a business here in Palestine, where exports can be stalled by Israel for any reason.

However, in other parts of the West Bank outside Ramallah, the occupation is even more a daily, physical reality.  In Hebron and the south West Bank, you see Israeli soldiers every day. In downtown Hebron there is a constant mlitary presence to 'protect' the Jewish settlers. In some Palestinian villages south of Hebron, Israeli soldiers escort Palestinian schoolchildren to school every day in order to prevent them being attacked by extremist Jewish settlers.  Israeli tanks are a constant sight on the horizon of the village of Doora, near Hebron.

In the north West Bank, and around the city of Nablus, the Jewish settlements create the same necessity for military presence. Closures of roads, road blocks and curfews imposed by the Israeli army are still common in some Palestinian villages in the area. In recent days, this is the case in Iraq Boreen, the village which I wrote about and visited a few weeks ago.  It has now been declared a 'closed military zone' and international medical volunteers were denied entrance to the village.
Israel declares village closed to foreigners

Some people on the outside, particularly some Israelis that I have spoken with, want to believe that the occupation really isn't so bad, and that its presence is exaggerated by Palestinians. I can tell you that it is not.  The occupation is felt, and it is real. Whether physically manifested in tanks and soldiers, economically in trade restrictions and border delays, or in the psychological scars from family history of arrests, humiliation or death at the hands of Israel, the occupation is very much a present reality.

NGOs in Palestine: Who can save us??

Everyone wants to think that someone or something can save them.  Perhaps a good job, a chance to travel, a coveted scholarship, God or even love.  Here in Palestine, just as in many other places in the world both rich and poor, many people are looking for a path to salvation from their present circumstances – a path leading them to happiness and contentment. Aren’t we all?

In Ramallah, many NGOs are offering paths to hope and success.  Of the over 800 NGOs operating in the West Bank and Gaza, there are programs and projects ranging from job training, agricultural support, water sanitation, trade facilitation, health clinic support, microfinance, gender programs, small business development, summer camps, English language, computer skills training, etc on and on. 

This plethora of NGOs, programs and projects has caused me to consider what I would want my role to be if I worked here long term, as well as the overall effects of this NGO explosion. Without writing a long treatise on the subject, I venture to say that there are things about this system that make me uncomfortable.  One is that many NGOs seem to be offering salvation in one sense or another.  So many Palestinians are frustrated by lack of job and educational opportunities, or the inability to travel, that many look for a project that can help them.  In Gaza, many NGOs have been choked off due to the siege, but UNRWA continues to provide schooling and jobs to tens of thousands of Gazans (UNRWA is technically considered an inter-governmental organization, not an NGO, and is one of the single largest employers of Palestinians).

The uncomfortable, or troubling, aspect of this is that offering these projects to improve peoples’ lives seems to be a thriving industry, and has been going on for decades. UN agencies and NGOs employ thousands of Palestinians through international donations, keeping the economy afloat. Yet the overall situation for Palestinians does not seem to be improving. In fact, it is declining. I hear over and over again about the declining quality of the universities, the schools, the shrinking job market and especially the difficulty obtaining permits to travel. 

I have no doubt that many NGOs here have helped a lot of people. I am sure that many Palestinian would say this as well.  The question is, as foreigners working here – with international aid dollars flowing in – what is the best role for us? Should we be focusing on more NGOs, more programs, more projects? Or focusing on what will really change the situation?

If I had a direct line to President Obama, I would use it. If I could sit in the Knesset and somehow convince Israelis that their policies in Gaza and the West Bank are unproductive and harmful, I would. But I am just like everyone else – I don’t have the ability to pull the political strings and work the political muscle necessary to broker peace in Israel-Palestine. So, I’m here working in an NGO, hoping to help some people, but knowing that overall the situation will continue to stagnate until politicians can muster the energy to change it.

There is no answer to this, but I wish that I felt more comfortable about working in the NGO sector here in Palestine.  I think everyone – foreigners, Israelis and Palestinians alike- is skeptical about promises of salvation here, when from hard experience we know that decades are passing without ‘peace.’ So I come back to: who can save us? I suppose we all know that it isn’t NGOs, and it isn’t even Obama. It’s going to take perfect timing, strong leadership, a lot of political will, immense pressure and a whole lot of luck and blessing to deliver salvation to this land.

the Cage that is Gaza

After reading this excellent article by Ethan Bronner and Michael Slackman in the NY Times - "Trapped by Gaza Blockade - Locked in Despair" - I became engrossed in some of the words they used. I found myself pulling quotes, each one I found poignant in expressing the despair of the Gazans that they interviewed.  I also wondered what I would say if I was one of them.  How would I express my frustration and rage? The following are a collection of quotes from the article.  Please also see this collection of photographs from Gaza that accompanied the article.

“scars have accumulated like layers of sedimentary rock, each marking a different crisis — homelessness, occupation, war, dependency”

“talk about food and people here get angry because it implies that their struggle is over subsistence rather than quality of life. The issue is not hunger. It is idleness, uncertainty and despair”

“there is a paradox at work in Gaza: while Hamas has no competition for power, it also has a surprisingly small following”

“Hamas and Fatah are two sides of the same coin…”

“since Israel’s three-week war 18 months ago here aimed at stopping Hamas rockets, their children frequently wet the bed. The youngest, Taj, 4, is aggressive, randomly punching anyone around him”

“my own children tell me it is better to die”

“when she visited her mother, her two brothers fought bitterly because one backs Hamas and the other backs Fatah. Recently they threw bottles at each other. Her mother kicked them out.”

“Israel is never far from people’s minds here. Its ships control the waters, its planes control the skies. Its whims, Gazans feel, control their fate.”

I guess there isn't much more to say. As I look out my window at the blue sky of Ramallah, I find it incomprehensible that only a few kilometers away are over 1.5 million people trapped in an open-air prison. What makes me crazy is that there is nothing anyone seems to be able to do to help, other than sailing more ships.

World Cup Final in Ramallah!

In the end, I went with Spain. I know they beat Germany, but I had to join the rest of the crowd in Ramallah in cheering for Spain and going crazy with excitement.  And after all the octopus in Germany predicted it. ;) Here are a couple pictures of us enjoying the match. Inside the place, the noise was deafening, and it took us a looong time to get home through the happy crowds on the streets. :)

Obama, Israel and the Palestinians

This week, President Obama gave an interview to Israeli News with correspondent Yonit Levy. You can listen to the interview in English here.  While talking to an Israeli audience, Obama sounds like every other U.S. President. He took the time to encourage Israelis that peace is possible, and that they should take hope from the very founding of their country in 1948.  He talked about the legitimate fears that Israelis face, due to the hostile Muslims in countries surrounding them.  He defended his special relationship to Israel by pointing out Rahm Emmanuel, and referred to the support of the Jewish-American community as essential in his political success.  Lastly, just as every American President has, he expresses his hope and optimism for the peace process. That if you can get the two sides into direct talks, trust can be built because (direct quote): “people feel like there’s a forum where conflicts can be resolved.”

I wish I could respond to Obama’s interview with anything other than sarcasm.  It’s wonderful that he is encouraging Israelis to trust him, to soothe their fears.  Wonderful that he points to the founding of Israel in 1948 as a great source of hope for peace.  And so optimistic of him to think that bringing Netanyahu and Abu Mazen to the same room for peace talks will build any trust among the people.

Just months ago, Obama delivered a speech in Cairo where he blatantly compared the Palestinian struggle to South Africa’s blacks before apartheid, and to the civil rights movement in the United States.  Now I understand that President Obama is a politician, and he wants to gain the trust of Israelis in order to move forward the peace process. The problem is that he is never speaking only to one audience.  When Palestinians, Arab citizens of Israel, and Arabs in other countries hear this interview with Israeli news, it makes Obama so disingenuous.  How can he on one hand identify the Palestinian struggle with civil rights and apartheid, yet encourage the oppressors in their special relationship with America? How indeed, can he encourage the Palestinians to fight for their freedom while providing more ‘security assistance’ to Israel than any other previous American President? 

If Obama was thinking historically, he would know that in both during civil rights in the United States and apartheid in South Africa, outside supporters played a great role in changing the oppressive systems of the day.  The world slowly turned against South Africa during the apartheid years, increasingly isolating it.  The support of powerful northern white people was key in propelling forward the civil rights movement in the United States, including Attorney General Robert Kennedy. 

The Palestinians need a Martin Luther King, Jr., but they also need a Robert Kennedy. Obama is no different from other U.S. Presidents in his record so far with the Israelis and the Palestinians. On one hand, he is encouraging the Palestinians to seek peace, but at the same time refusing to be the outside support that is necessary for them to succeed.  Instead, he is encouraging Israelis to ‘face their legitimate fears’; refusing in the meantime to condemn their racist and inhumane policies of the Gaza blockade, illegal settlement of Palestinian land and utter control of Palestinian movement in the territories. 

I would like to see President Obama address the Palestinian people in the same way he is addressing the Israeli people.  If anyone has a reason to doubt the peace process, it is the Palestinians.  They have never found a friend in the United States and have no reason to see one now, when all that is offered to them are more empty words.  Obama should address 1948 as a day of great sorrow for the Palestinian people and acknowledge the violence that drove thousands of them from their homes.  He should address their actual concerns.  The actual concerns of the Palestinians are that they cannot travel to see their families, cannot find jobs, suffer waiting at checkpoints and in lines every day, and have no options in life simply because they are Palestinians and no longer have equal rights with other human beings.  Why can’t Obama say this? Why can’t anyone say this?!

American Dollars supporting Israeli Settlements

The first time I was in Egypt, back in 2005, one of the first issues that I had to personally tackle was the direct influence that Americans, and particularly American Christians, have had in Middle East politics.  Particularly in Israel-Palestine, Americans have not only governmentally and militarily supported Israel, but private American citizens have poured millions of dollars over the years into settlement expansion in the West Bank and Gaza.

Particularly these days, as Obama has made settlements a central issue in his negotiations with the Israelis (as well he should), he should perhaps also be more aware of the Americans who are supporting the settlement movement with generous donations.  As this NY Times article is discussing: “Tax-Exempt Funds Aid Settlements in the West Bank,” many of these funds are even tax-free in the United States. This conflict of American interests should be of concern to the Obama administration. Though private citizens may have the right to use their money as they wish, the tax-exempt status of the funds makes it part of government policy.

The American donations to Israeli settlements come from a number of sources, with different motivations.  Some of the biggest donors are individual American Jews with nationalist reasons for supporting the expansion of Israeli territory.  There are also a number of Jewish foundations and organizations who specifically raise funds to send to settlements, such as the One Israel Fund.

The other population donating significant funds to Israeli settlements are American Christians, particularly conservative Protestant churches and organizations. These groups, such as the Christian Friends of Israeli Communities, are sometimes called Christian Zionists.  Christian Zionists support Israeli settlement of all the land between the Mediterranean Sea and the Jordan River, due to the belief that the Revelations of the Bible will be fulfilled only when the Jews have settled back in the Holy Land. 

Some of these Christians are also called Dispensationalists. This term refers to the ‘dispensations’ or times of God’s interaction with humans throughout history and in the future.  In a way, these dispensations are signs of the coming of the end of the world.  The belief of Dispensationalists include that the Jews remain God’s chosen people, and that the nation of Israel will be restored to the identical Israel of the Bible.  Part of this belief is that out of a remnant of the Jews, God will restore Israel, and the Jews will realize that they crucified Jesus, the Messiah.  All of this is supposed to lead to the Day of Judgment, when Jesus will rule the world from Jerusalem for one thousand years.

Whether Christian Zionists or Dispensationalists (they are closely related), these American Christian groups have been funneling money to Israeli settlers for decades.  This money has made it possible for Israel to control over 40% of the West Bank due to the excuse of protecting settlements. This American support has also made it possible for the political right in Israel to exercise far more clout than their numbers imply – as they are the politicians who insist on continued settlement activity.  Obama should closely examine these American dollars and their affect not only on the Palestinians, but on American foreign policy and the peace process.  If so many American dollars are flowing untaxed to Israeli settlements – often through extremely conservative religious groups – how can our government truly say that we are demanding a settlement freeze?  Settlements are ruining the lives of Palestinians and sabotaging the peace process. Their support should be the first thing that is examined if the U.S. really wants to stop them.

Budrus

Today Darin and I were invited to a film screening for Budrus – a documentary about the village of Budrus in the West Bank.  Link to Budrus film site.

Budrus is one of at many villages in Palestine that are threatened by the construction of Israel’s security wall (also called the security fence, the barrier, apartheid wall, etc. depending who you talk to).  I have posted here a map published by B'tselem in 2008 of the Israeli Wall current and planned route.  Notice Budrus in the top left corner of the map. The 1967 Green Line is represented in (surprise) green, and red is the route of the constructed or planned Israeli wall. See the entire map here.

In 2003, a man named Ayed Morrar started organizing the villagers in Budrus for non-violent resistance against the wall.  The villagers stood in their groves of olive trees, preventing the Israeli bulldozers from uprooting them. In the film, the way the villagers talked about their olive trees made me cry – they talk about the trees like they are their children.  It also reminded me of Avatar – the classic story of brutal technology uprooting the natural world, at the same time the spirit, livelihood and history of a people.

Ayed and all the villagers spent days getting up in the morning and standing with the olive trees, but eventually the Israeli Border Police who were there enforce the construction of the wall started to use violence.  The film show ample footage of Palestinian women being beaten with sticks by the Israeli soldiers, tear gas and stun grenades thrown to disperse the crowd.  Later, Ayed Morrar’s daughter jumps into the hole of the bulldozer, stopping it from continued digging.  To quote the film: it becomes a battle of wills. Israeli and international activists join the villagers in protests. The Israelis occupy Budrus and put the village under curfew.  Young men start to throw stones, and the Israelis start to shoot live bullets. They occupy Palestinian homes in the village.  Over a period of 10 months, the battle of wills continued.  In the end, the Israelis moved the Wall to the West of Budrus, leaving 95% of their olive groves untouched.

The story of Budrus is encouraging.  It also focuses in on some of the focal issues for Palestinians in resisting this occupation.  When we were watching the film, the audience was cheering when they watched the young men from Budrus throwing stones. I did not cheer. I truly believe that throwing stones will not work. In fact, it only gives the excuse for continued violence from the Israeli side.  However, NOT throwing stones after continuous provocation is so much more difficult than throwing stones. It takes a battle of will inside each Palestinian to NOT resort to throwing stones or other violence…. the humiliation they experience is such that throwing stones and fighting back is by far the most natural reaction.  NOT fighting back takes more strength than you can imagine.

For me, the part of this film that I was most focused on was this non-violent aspect. The vast majority of Palestinians are non-violent and resist the occupation in a quiet way, going about their daily lives. But with enough provocation and humiliation, anyone will resort to throwing stones. That is what the film Budrus shows very well.  Hamas and Fatah members of the village also worked together. They focused on strategy, not on their emotions.  This is what I really believe is needed here… a larger strategy and leadership that can help to inspire people to take the more difficult path. Not throwing stones.

How to pick your World Cup team

These days in Ramallah, much of life seems to be revolving around the World Cup. I am loving every moment. J One of the most hilarious parts of the World Cup is how to choose a team. Particularly among Palestinians here, it is a conversational process that takes many twists and turns.

Algeria was the only Arab country represented in the Cup this year, and even they were not supported widely in the Arab world (especially in Egypt – please don’t ask). ;) After they so sadly lost to the good old US of A, there is absolutely no team with close ties to Palestine, at least geographically. So who to support?!

Take, for example, a debate I heard over Argentina. “Great team, but there are so many Jews in Argentina. And so many Argentinian Jews in Israel. Plus, isn’t Maradona a Jew? Yes, he dealt drugs. But he changed. He is an amazing cheater. But he has charisma! Maybe, but most Israelis support Argentina, it was proven in a poll. So if they lose, more Israelis will be sad. We should cheer against Argentina.”

Amazing logic, right? I love it. Also, Ghana. Ghana is controversial because in the 2006 World Cup, a player from the Ghana team took out an Israeli flag at the end of a winning match, waving it around. Supposedly, the player has a lot of fans in Israel, so he was thanking them. In any case, it caused a major uproar, and this year most Palestinians remembered this and were hesitant to support Ghana. However, someone else pointed out to me that Ghana does have 3 Muslim players. So perhaps it is still okay to cheer for them. J

Well, I certainly can’t criticize anyone for their logic in the World Cup. I’m supporting Germany just because my family is half German, after all. J I also have something against Brazil, ever since I saw them come to Egypt and beat Ahly 7-0, after which all the Egyptians were so happy! (sigh) Oh, Egypt. No loyalty. Just because Ronaldinho was playing.

Well, that’s the logic of picking your World Cup team. Whichever agrees with your politics, or makes your enemies sad, or shares your heritage. Or just makes you happy.

On that note: GO GERMANY!!!!  J

Kosher, Halal and Sleepovers

I learned an Islamic saying the other day. “Kol 3nd yahodi w nam 3nd mase7e.”  Meaning: “eat with the Jews, and sleep/rest with Christians.”  Now, trying to explain the various interpretations of a saying like this is a bit dangerous, but it was making me think. J

First of all, the beginning of the saying refers to the rules governing eating for both Jews and Muslims.  Jews of course are prescribed to eat kosher. Kosher food has a number of detailed rules.  The basics are not eating properly slaughtered meat (slaughtered according to Jewish law, draining the blood), not eating pork, and not mixing meat and milk products together.  Kosher also prohibits eating insects, so fruits and vegetables have to be cleaned thoroughly to make sure you don’t eat an ant or two. ;) There are a number of other more detailed instructions on eating kosher – those are just the basics.

Muslims also have rules governing the intake of food/drink. Halal (meaning lawful), the opposite of haraam (unlawful) actually refers to all behavior in life that is considered lawful under Allah. For Muslims, eating halal means not eating pork or blood, therefore meat should be slaughtered in order to drain the blood.  Like Jews, Muslims are also prohibited from eating meat which is not slaughtered, meaning meat from an animal that died from natural causes in not allowed. Muslims are also forbidden to drink alcohol (according to the Quran, which says: (very rough paraphrasing) Muslims should not drink even a small amount of something, which could make one drunk)).

So, back to the saying. Muslims, recognizing the similarity of kosher and halal laws governing food, say it is good for them to ‘eat with the Jews.’  In fact, many Muslims in the United States eat at kosher restaurants or buy from kosher grocery stores, because in general, if something is kosher, it will also be halal.  

As for the second part of the saying, I am told by some Muslims friends that Muslims consider Christians to be ‘closer’ friends to them than the Jews – as a historical view.  They are told to ‘sleep/rest with the Christians’ because they can trust them.  This view is due to many factors, but one is the stories of two early Christians who met and knew the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him).  The Prophet, when he was still around 12 years old, met a Christian monk named Bahira in the desert, who foretold that he would become a Prophet from God.  Later, after the Prophet received his first revelation from Allah, he was encouraged to believe and accept the revelations by a Christian scholar named Waraqa ibn Nawfal. Both of these recorded incidents are taught in Islam as examples of Christians as friends to Muslims.

One of the things I like about Islam is its recognition of the things that join the three religions. As it was the last religion to emerge, it does have the benefit of hindsight. However, Islam has historically been a tolerant religion, allowing Jews and Christians to live among Islamic communities in peace.  I find this Islamic saying fascinating in its simplicity. It makes me smile, imagining two Jewish and Muslim housewives cooking away in the kitchen together. Or imagining some Christian kids from Minnesota camping with some Egyptian Muslim kids, maybe making s’mores and swatting mosquitoes. J For those of us Christians, we should probably steer clear of cooking a big meal for our Jewish and Muslim friends. But maybe we could invite them all over for a sleepover instead. J

Days of Blessing

Here in the Middle East, among both Muslim and Jewish communities, one of the patterns of life that I love are ‘days of blessing.’  For Muslims, Fridays are a day of prayer, a day to rest.  In Cairo, I used to be bored sometimes on Fridays, because most shops, cafes and restaurants are closed until late afternoon.  I used to wake up as late as possible, often around 12:30 when the mosques started blaring the Friday sermons on their loudspeakers.  Usually Muslim men go to the mosque to pray on Fridays, women usually pray at home. 

Last year in Kufr Qara, Fridays were my favorite day. J Because, especially on warm summer days, the family I lived with would often get together in the late afternoon for a BBQ and lunch. I loved those days, sitting in the garden with all the family. We usually stayed for hours into the evening, talking, eating and drinking tea at hour intervals. Fridays were really a day of rest and enjoyment, being with family. A day of blessing.

In Israel, the Jewish day of Shabbat is Saturday. From sunset on Friday to sunset on Saturday, most places are closed in Israel, including malls, all public transit, and many restaurants. Now, many of my friends have heard me say: “I hate Shabbat!” because due to my lack of a car, I am reliant on Israeli buses to get around. The Shabbat schedule greatly inhibits my ability to do anything on weekends. J However, I can appreciate setting aside a day for rest, not going out in the usual busyness of daily life. Some Orthodox Jews practice Shabbat by abstaining even from electricity, doing any kind of work, from traveling and using technology. Many Jews have a special Shabbat meal on Friday evenings or during the days Saturday with their families. In general, Shabbat is also meant to be a day of rest.

In the U.S., most people have lost this idea of a day of blessing.  Even here among Jews or Muslims it is often not acknowledged, but the forced change of pace creates a sort of forced reflection.  I know for me in Kufr Qara, the feeling of Fridays gave me energy for the rest of the week, and I was comforted being with a caring family. Last weekend visiting Darin's family in Tel gave me the same feeling.  Even when I get frustrated by Shabbat sometimes, and wish I could take a bus J it is nice to think about all the families enjoying a day of blessing together.

Blockade

It seems like everyone is discussing the Gaza blockade these days. It’s illegal, inhumane. Breaches of international law. Prevention of weapons smuggling. Terrorism. Defense of Israel. People trapped in an open-air prison. The flotilla. What does it all mean?

My first reaction when I heard about the flotilla attack was disbelief. Sadly, I was shocked because of the horrendous public relations mistake Israel had made – not because Israel had once again used any means necessary to prevent Gaza from breaking through the barrier of control that Israel has imposed upon it.

I share the opinion of many others, that the flotilla deaths broadcast Israel’s weaknesses very plainly. Israel is weakening year by year, just like the United States. The symptoms are its failed policies, a series of mismanaged wars, an increasingly fractious domestic political environment, and an obsession with the ‘war on terror.’ The flotilla deaths first show Israel’s military incompetence. I do not think Israeli soldiers are evil people. I think the soldiers were unprepared for the resistance of the flotilla activists, and lost control of the situation to the extent of shooting 9 people point-blank. This is the working of a third world military at protest demonstration, not an advanced military. I also think Israeli politicians and military commanders underestimate the damage done to Israel’s reputation year by year with their policies against the Palestinians. Israel’s weakness is in its inability to thoroughly convince the world that the blockade on Gaza is either working, or necessary in the first place. Israel is continuing to make the same mistakes that the United States made during the Bush years.

Israeli fanaticism with holding on to the Gaza blockade is another sign of its weakness. The Israeli government, and many Israelis, argue that the blockade on Gaza is necessary in order to prevent Hamas from getting weapons. If this is truly the logic for Israel blockading an entire 1.5 million Palestinians from the world, let me ask:

1. Why block ships from entering Gaza’s ports that are proven to carry nothing but humanitarian supplies?
2. In Dec-Jan 2009, why unilaterally kill over 1,400 Palestinian civilians, assaulting Gaza as if the entire place is a military base? Is this the working of an advanced military? Is this the way to ‘protect’ Israel, preserving its safety for the future?!
3. Why prevent Gazans with good jobs and education from traveling? Why punish all people with a Gaza ID from moving anywhere, keeping them separated from their families and friends?

The blockade is primarily about collective punishment. In 2006, it is widely noted that Dov Weisglass, a close advisor to Ariel Sharon in the Israeli government, stated: “the idea is to put the Palestinians on a diet, but not to make them die of hunger.” In the 1970s, Moshe Dayan (leader of the Israeli Labor party) said: “We have no solution.. you [Palestinians] shall continue to live like dogs, and whoever wishes may leave, and we will see where this process leads.” (Source: Yossi Beilin, Mehiro shel Ihud (Revivim, 1985), 42; an important review of cabinet records under the Labor Party, from Noam Chomsky).

So where has this process led?? It has led to more and more collective punishment of the Palestinians, and less and less peace. Let’s punish Gazans for electing Hamas. Let’s starve Hamas out of power, let’s make them feel that we control every small detail of their lives. As Dayan said, let the Palestinians leave. It’s the same in the West Bank. The policies of the settlements are screaming to the Palestinians: “leave! It’s not your land anymore.”

I have seen this collective punishment played out in the lives of ordinary people from Gaza. My friend Nizar, whom I recently wrote about, is from Gaza. He is here in Ramallah, trying to go back to Gaza to see his mother who is sick with cancer. He is still waiting for a permit to go to Gaza. His father is a former Fatah minister (obviously not a Hamas supporter!) and Nizar works for a USAID contractor. He is as highly educated and successful as one can be, yet he cannot get a permit to even move from one Palestinian area to another.

A couple days ago, Nizar was informed that he could get a permit to go to Gaza within 1 hour if he signed a paper declaring he would never return to the West Bank, ever. The Israelis are trying to control every aspect of life for Gazans. They don’t want Gazans to leave Gaza, or to go back in. They don’t want Gazans to be in the West Bank, much less in other countries. Nizar is not even inside Israeli territory, but their occupation means they still control every aspect of his movement. He did not sign the statement, and so is still here in Ramallah, waiting for a permit that may take days or weeks to come. His comment to me was, “this is what we [Palestinians] know, occupation.”

Israel must stop claiming that the blockade is necessary to protect itself. As a friend of mine recently said, even if Israel killed every Hamas member, something else would rise in its place. Hamas – the spirit of it – will never die so long as Israel is oppressively controlling and occupying the Palestinian people. There is something called the right to resist…. The blockade is only increasing the hatred, frustration and rage against Israel. The flotilla deaths are another result of the huge mistake and failure of the blockade… another dark stain on Israel’s record…. another event triggering even more resentment and violence against the Israeli state. Showing Israel’s profound weakness, even in the midst of its tight control over Palestinian lives. There is simply no way to continue this policy. Israel has to find another way to ‘defend itself.’ Stop the obsession with military solutions. Show some commitment to actually respecting Palestinians, some sign that Israel actually wants peace. There is no other way out.

Religious Jews protecting Palestinians

This article, by Nir Hasson, is a fascinating set of personal arguments from some Jewish Israelis who are protesting the evacuation of Palestinian residents of Sheikh Jarrah (a neighborhood in East Jerusalem). "The Orthodox Jews fighting the Judaization of East Jerusalem" The article is long, but well worth the read.

I think about this question sometimes... wondering why some of the 'most religious' among the Jews are the ones living in settlements in the West Bank, and treating Palestinians as less than human beings. I know that many religious Jews would disagree, and say that the settlers believe an incorrect version of the Torah. But one cannot deny that some interpretations of the Torah are spurring this settler movement on; particularly the belief that Jews should conquer and inhabit all of the land of Israel.

It seems that every religion has currents, controversies and sects. Just as Islam's image was betrayed by the atrocities committed by some extremist Muslims, Jews who are violent settlers are betraying a much more loving side of Judaism. Christianity also has its own number of extremists, blaming Katrina's destruction on homosexuals for example. Each religion has those who use the religion's texts as evidence for their black-and-white version of the world.

That's why hearing stories of Jews who share a strong love for God and for Israel can be uplifting, because they can still stand up for the rights of Palestinians. As one man says in the article: in Sheikh Jarrah there is no mistaking the bad guys from the good guys. Just as in the West Bank settlements, there is no mistaking the settlers as the bad guys and the Palestinians as the good guys. Absolutely no mistaking: and if you came and saw for yourself, you would agree. No matter your political background or previous understanding of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, there is no mistaking oppression when you see it face-to-face.

Though I confess being ignorant of most things in Judaism, I feel that no matter what, God wants us to treat other human beings as human beings - with respect and love. Despite any other precept He may have set out for us, this is the first - in Islam, Christianity and Judaism. I wish these Jews who are advocating the humanity of Palestinians all the strength they need, and wish more religious Jews in the settlements would examine all the precepts in Judaism, not just those that tell them to conquer the land.

Iraq Boreen

Last weekend in Nablus, we also visited a very small village called Iraq Boreen. It is a unique and beautiful village, situated on top of a huge rock overlooking Tel and the valley. From the village, the views are amazing of all of Palestine/Israel and the sea. Unfortunately, Iraq Boreen also suffers from its close proximity to an Israeli-Jewish settlement.

On Fridays, settlers from nearby walk on the hills which overlook Iraq Boreen, shouting slogans and attempting to provoke the villagers into a fight. One Friday in March, a Palestinian boy named Mohamed started throwing stones at the settlers after being insulted and provoked, and Israeli soldiers (who guard the village to 'protect' the settlers) shot him. His cousin Osaid, seeing him shot in the street, ran to try to drag him to safety. The soldiers shot him, too.

These two boys, young teenagers, are now considered martyrs to the Palestinian cause. Because one of them was a brother to a student at PEFE, Darin wanted to visit them. Around Iraq Boreen and Tel, there are numerous pictures of martyrs pasted on streets and hanging on signs. At Osaid's family house in Iraq Boreen, his picture was hanging outside and in the living room. His younger sister also had a picture of him hanging around her neck from a small string.


Osaid and Mohamed pictured as martyrs in Iraq Boreen

We sat with Osaid's family, and they offered us coffee and tea. Having recently been to 3omra in Saudi Arabia, which is a mini-pilgrimage, they also offered us holy water brought from Mecca to drink, called zamzam. Their generosity is overwhelming, particularly only 3 months from their son's death. We sat with them, Osaid's portrait hanging from the wall above us, watching over his family.


Poster from the Intifada, with Yasser Arafat
Inscription at top reads: "The Resistance and Martyrs of Tel"


Graffiti, Tel village

Imagine losing your son/brother in a senseless act like this, in the village where all your family lives and has built their lives. Imagine having neighbors such as the settlers, who believe themselves superior to you, and who are slowly trying to force you off the land; who provoke and harass you day after day. Try to imagine the deep frustration and sadness this would bring, and the despair. Imagine having the lives of your children cheapened, and knowing that your life is worth less than your Jewish neighbors. Again, this is the reality of the occupation.

Nablus and Tel

This weekend, Darin's family took me with them to Nablus and Tel, their home village. The road from Ramallah to Nablus is about an hour long, and we set off Friday morning packed into the car. As we drove, Darin's father kept a running commentary for me of the villages and towns that we passed. He also pointed out the Jewish settlements along the way. The whole road from Ramallah to Nablus is lined with settlements, all of them on the tops of the hills. There is a gas station next to the road, fenced in and only available for Jewish settlers to use. Each settlement has a new road curving off the highway to the hills above, blocked with a checkpoint at the entrance.

As we arrived to Nablus, I could see it is a beautiful city. Nestled between two long, hilly mountains, Nablus looks like a cozy, comfortable city from above. There are numerous large white apartment buildings, and some beautiful rooftops of mosques and churches lining the neighborhoods near the mountain. From the road above, Nablus was picturesque. From below, as we explored the souq (market) and browsed through everything from pecans to sheep bladders to underwear and gold jewelry, Nablus was bustling with activity. Nablus is also famous for the best konafe, a special Palestinian dessert made with sweet white cheese, pistachios, sweet water and some sort of crunchy sweet stuff (no idea what it is!). It was as good as I always heard. :)

View of Nablus

Outside the bustle of the city, just over the mountain, lies Tel. Tel is a small Palestinian town/village with a population of about 5,500. After meeting numerous Zeidan aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents, children.. (I was overwhelmed!) and saying a lot of marhabas and kef halkoom and kissing lots of women on the cheeks repeatedly :) we went out walking around the village. The Zeidans have some land on top of a hill near the village – its set up like a small summer camp. They had beds hanging from the trees! It was so cool, like Swiss Family Robinson Palestinian-style. :) From their perch on the hill, we could see the Mediterranean Sea. I could see Tel Aviv, Hadera, Cesarea beach, and the lights of the towns of Israel/1948 Palestine. It was amazing.

Darin's Aunt, who reminded me of my Great Grandma


Darin and I

Uncle Talal's Story

The more somber part of this trip was hearing stories of the occupation and oppression that weighs on the people in Tel and Nablus as they face the reality of a life without freedom of movement. One of Darin's uncles, Talal (or Abu Mohamed), lives in a small building at the 'camp' place on the hill that I just described. He used to work with the Palestinian Authority and worked outside the country for them, but then decided that he wanted to move back to Tel and bring his family with him. His family was in Jordan, waiting to move. Talal moved back to Tel just before the Second Intifada started in 2000, not knowing that it would mean years of separation from his family. After arriving in Tel, Talal had to apply for a Palestinian ID and permission to stay in the West Bank – but when the Intifada erupted he had no way to get them. For eight years Talal lived on the mountain illegally, afraid to travel anywhere for fear of being deported. He was also unable to get permits for his family to come to Palestine from Jordan. For eight years, Talal did not see his wife or children. Then finally in 2009, he was able to obtain an ID card from the Palestinian government, and was able to visit his family in Jordan. Two of his sons were able to apply for permission to visit Palestine because they were under 18 years old, and so they are now staying with him for the summer in Tel. His wife and other children are still in Jordan.

Graffiti from the 2nd Intifada, Tel village

It is maddening to hear of stories like Uncle Talal; regular people who worked hard and never got into any trouble in their lives, but are unable to have the most simple things in life. All this due to these RULES as I said in an earlier post: the ridiculous, cruel rules that govern the lives of Palestinians. That's what living under occupation means.

the Meaning(s) of Zionism

A few months ago, I heard a podcast on APM Speaking of Faith called “Curiosity over Assumptions” - about a new partnership called New Ground in Los Angeles. This partnership is between Muslim and Jewish Americans, coming together to talk and build real relationships both within and between their communities. (Listen to the podcast here).

As part of this initiative, New Ground focused on the linguistics and terms that Jews and Muslims use, particularly in talking about Israel and Palestine. There are certain words that trigger emotions in this conflict. Think of terms like occupation, settlement, 1948, 1967, colony, apartheid, anti-semitism.... to the very names of the places themselves: Israel, Palestine.

A word that New Ground talked about is Zionism. As a factual term, Zionism broadly refers to the Jewish nationalist movement formally started by Theodor Herzl in the late 1800s, calling for Jewish self-determination and the creation of a Jewish State. Today, 62 years after the establishment of Israel in 1948, Zionism means vastly different things to different people – including within the Jewish community. It particularly means something different to most Muslims and Arabs.

In the United States, New Ground is tackling this issue by talking with young Muslim and Jewish people and calling on them to think critically about their perspectives, while challenging them to form relationships and encounter the “other” in a real way. Examining a term like Zionism brings to light the difficulty of communication – of not shying away from the 'elephant in the room' (the Israeli-Palestinian conflict).

For many Jewish people, both in America and in Israel, the term Zionism symbolizes the longing for a homeland, for belonging. It can also mean safety, security... after decades and centuries of moving from country to country. It could mean unity, a movement of Jewish people coming together. Perhaps most of all, Zionism for many Jews means hope.. for the future of the Jewish community.

For many Muslims and Arabs, also from around the world, Zionism means colonization, imperialism and conquest. It symbolizes the force that killed Arabs, that forced them from their land. Zionism is the idea that de-validated Arab and Muslim ties to the Holy Land. When used in political speeches in the Arab world, Zionism is usually used as a profusely negative term – the 'Zionist entity' being a derogatory term for the State of Israel.

Words like Zionism mean so much in forming the identity of Muslims, Arabs, Jews, Israelis, Palestinians, and even Christians in this conflict. The huge gap in meaning for a word like Zionism make communication nearly impossible to achieve between the two sides. I think addressing these terms and confronting the real meanings behind these words could have a breakthrough effect in communication – allowing people to understand and see the emotions that tie people of many religions and cultures across the world to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. I hope to address this issue at NYU in the coming year, and learn more from organizations like New Ground that are pioneering this approach. Personally, I also need to keep examining my own interpretations of words used in this conflict, and be aware of the meanings and emotions that I attach to them.